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HG Walter - Country Style Pork

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By: H G Walter

I probably visit 5 - 10 butchers, deli's or farm shops per week. More if I'm on a foraging trip or on holiday. All that retail therapy helps me assess a shop in a matter of seconds, of course I buy the sausages but first impressions are usually pretty accurate.

So after taking a diversion on the Piccadilly line, turning right out of the tube station and walking 100 metres to the shop I knew I was in the a treat. This gem of a shop sells meat, cheese, jams, pickles etc and won the 2004 award for Best Butcher in Britain, more recently it was crowned as producer of the Evening Standard Best Sausage in London.

The shop is small and customers are more than happy to queue because everything is special and of the highest quality. I was served by a proper butcher who was happy to cut me some beef ribs for a casserole and a friendly, French girl. Yes, the meat is expensive but it is a worthwhile investment, with meat this good a little can go a long way. As well as the roasting joints and premium dinner party cuts they also champion cheaper, family friendly food. Much of it is organic and all sourced from quality, artisan producers. As the blackboard picture shows, they were selling Dorset Spring Lamb (this was taken in late March) , 40 day Sirloin (in most places 28 day is special), Mutton from Lancashire, Venison from Windsor, Veal steaks, Ox cheek and Pigeon. Ox Cheek is a traditional stewing cut, the muscle of a mature cow it needs plenty of cooking buy makes great casseroles. In short this is serious food but served in a friendly, down to earth way.

Sausages are clearly a speciality, the display here contains around 15 sausage varieties including Pork & Sage, Italian Pork, Toulouse, Chorizo, Lamb & Mint, Merguez, Cumberland, Wild Boar & Apple and Chicken & Apricot. Prices range from 7.50 a kilo for the pork based to 12.50 for the exotics. The Country Style Pork was judged to be the joint winner of the best sausage in London by the Evening Standard in 2007 and Michael Winner in the Sunday Times wrote:

"Now to something equally serious: pork sausages. The best pork sausages in London and possibly the universe, come from a small butcher' shop in Baron's Court called HG Walker. I've had a lot of their meat and that was all marvellous, too "

We couldn't say it any better, our plump bangers were cooked slowly in a heavy frying pan. They cooked beautifully with no splutter or leakage, the skins were crispy and inside was a moist, finely ground sausage packed with flavour.

This is must visit shop which sells superb food and sausages. The quality ethos also applies to the HG Walter website (link on the Producer page). Our Top 10 Producers is in need of a overhaul and this is going to be one of them! A Top Ten 10 out of 10 in our scoring system.

Sausage of the week archive
29/03/2023 : Biggles - Toulouse
22/01/2024 : Simon Howie - Haggis

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